The Build
Power Mac G4 AGP Graphics
aka the “Sawtooth”
System Configuration
Internal Hardware
CPU: PowerLogix 7447A 2.0 GHz
Cache: L2 @ 512 KB
Bus Speed: 100 Mhz
Boot ROM: v4.2.8f1
Memory: 4x 512MB PC100/133 SDRAM (2 GB)
ATA/66 Bus: 160GB Seagate 7200.7
ATA/33 Bus: Pioneer DVR-116

Graphics: ATI Radeon 9800 Pro 256MB Mac Edition
SATA PCI Controller: Firmtek Seritek 1V2E+2
  SATAII Western Digital 150GB Raptor
  SATAII Western Digital 640 GB Caviar Blue
USB 2.0 PCI Controller: System Talks 5 port (4+1) w/ NEC Chipset
  Front panel mounted USB 2.0 port

PSU: Zumax 500W (550W peak)  v2.01 ATX Dual Fan
  Arctic Cooling ATI Silencer 1 rev 2 VGA cooler
  Thermaltake Thunderblade 120mm Blue LED Case Fan- 78CFM 21.0dBA
  Evercool "Thin" 80 X 15mm CPU Fan 28.5CFM
  Scythe Premium AL HDD Cooler Blue LED
  OwlTech 80 x 80 x 25mm Case Fan Blue LED 38 CFM

Misc. Lighting Effects
  5mm Blue LED “foot” lights
  5mm Blue LED front panel “Apple” backlight
  3mm Blue/White LED Power button  light
  2x 24 3mm LED strip Side panel backlighting

Custom wiring with UV Blue Sleeving and Molex connectors. System Configuration
External Hardware
Monitor: 23” Apple HD Cinema Display
Sound: Harmon Kardon Sound Sticks
  Saitek Eclipse USB Gaming Keyboard
   Logitech MX Laser Wireless Mouse
   Macally iShock II Controller
   Apple Pro USB Keyboard (Black)
   Apple Pro Optical mouse (Black)
   Griffin iMic
   Logicool QCam Ultra

External Hard Drives:
   OWC Mercury Elite Pro 2 Bay 
   OWC Mercury Elite AL
1x Seagate 7200.10 500GB HDD
   LaCie D2 160GB (Maxtor) HDD

Printer: HP PSC2150 All-In-One

USB Hub: Elecom U2H-G4B2SVUSB 2.0      
4 port (powered)

Cyber Snipa Tracer Blue LED Gaming Mouse Pad

Denon DP23F Turntable
Now that all that was done, and the system ran as it should, it was time to get on with the exterior dress up.
                                                                           Honestly, once I had the machine closed up, and
connected to the monitor, keyboard, and other
peripherals, and all tests had passed (and passed                        
nicely, I might add), I ran it in this condition (no dress
panels) for about 4 months before I started in again.
Anyhow, it’s time to move on to the button up.......
To be continued....
Now that all seems to work, it’s time to put all
of the goodies back in.
Below is a shot of all the internals back where
they belong.
One might note that the case fan tin had the interior blade
guards removed, and a “pretty” one screwed on in its place.
In the picture below, one can see a 5 mm LED inserted into one of the four holes that I mentioned earlier.
It took me three nights of work to get the wiring done to my satisfaction. In retrospect, it was a real pain in the butt, though I am glad that I went to the trouble.
Once the wiring harness was complete, the PSU, fans, firewire port, USB port, foot lighting, and switches were installed.
From here on out, there is a lot of installing and removing of parts, because I decided to completely rebuild the wiring harness of the 500W PSU. Because of all the hardware planned, I just couldn’t see trying to “get by” with the existing ATX wiring harness
Besides, it needed a bit of “cool” added to it......
The top of the case was opened to allow mounting of a
80 x 80 x 25 mm case fan to aid ventilation.
The case interior received a 5 mm hole, carefully placed in each of the four bottom corners, to allow a 5 mm LED to illuminate the acrylic feet of the finished machine.
In the rear of the case, a 12 mm hole was placed below the I/O port panel to allow another switch for the lighting effects.
Since I had no intention of using an Airport card, and had                            
stripped the antenna, I also drilled out the rivets holding the
mounting tin on the interior of the door panel, and removed it.
The case was then de-burred, degreased, and prepped for a                                
coat of silver paint on the exterior of the case only.
After completely stripping the case, it was prepped
for some new features.
In the front, for an LED light behind the Apple of the
front acrylic panel, a 12 mm hole was opened, to
accommodate a rubber grommet which would hold a
5 mm blue LED backlight.
In the case front, to the left of the power button,
allowing clearance for the power button board
assembly, openings were prepped for a push button
switch (more LED lighting), a firewire port, and a USB
My system as it was before I got the wild idea to tear it apart.......